Book Review: “Warhol’s Muses”

June 7, 2025

“Warhol’s Muses: The Artists, Misfits, and Superstars Destroyed by the Factory Fame Machine” by Laurence Leamer

These days the name Andy Warhol invokes images of the zany 1960’s and a cultural icon of the 1970’s. To hear the name Warhol more often evokes a snapshot of an era, rather than the legacy of the person. Images flash through our mind of Marilyn Monroe, Campbell’s Soup, Brillo Pads, and even celebrity photos from Studio 54. Author and biographer Laurence Leamer has an impressive track record of documenting the entourages and close ties of the women associated with celebrity men in some of his previous books: “Capote’s Women”, “Hitchcock’s Blondes”, “The Kennedy Women”, and this latest follows the travails of the women who took a swim through Warhol’s Factory.

Leamer pulls no punches. For those searching for more ‘flower power’ or ‘peace and love’, this is not the book for you. In keeping with that, this is not so much a history of Andy Warhol as it is a detailing of the line of “superstars” that entered and departed from the Warhol sphere of influence. Surprisingly, this makes for reading that is every bit as interesting (and a bit dispiriting) as the numerous biographies that have been written on the man himself.

What Leamer makes clear is that Warhol had a desperate need to be famous. His pop art that sells for such extravagant prices today, never seemed to be a passionate pursuit, and for years it only got him so far along the path of A-list celebrity. Instead, Warhol’s talent for using the beauty and presence of these women to open high society doors seemed to be his true commitment … and the cost to those women mattered little to him. In fact, a recurring theme is his lack of emotional ties. Warhol seemed to carry a void for all but his own image. Although a few benefitted at times, these are the women who paid the price for his public image.

The muses of the title and the ‘superstars’ of Warhol’s Factory are subjects of fairly comprehensive recording and analysis by author Leamer. The ten discussed are: (Baby) Jane Holzer, Edie Sedgwick, Brigid Berlin, Mary Woronov, International Velvet (Susan Bottomly), Viva (Susan Mary Hoffman), Ultra Violet (Isabelle Collin Defresne, Salvador Dali’s former lover), Nico (Christa Paffgen), Ingrid Superstar (Ingrid Von Scheven), and Candy Darling (James Slattery). You may recognize some of the names, but what mattered to Warhol was that each stood out in a crowd, and while clutching his arm, helped soften his homosexuality for the masses. Each brought a level of glamour and a form of respectability to a mostly reserved and often socially awkward man.

Of course, the other side of that coin is where Leamer spends his time. Sex, drugs, art, and parties all over Manhattan were keys. However, Leamer details Warhol’s “independent” films that seemed to offer little more than an outlet for his fetishes, while providing hope for stardom to these women. Warhol made these “underground” movies for his own pleasure and as a way to lure those he wanted as part of the Factory. His movies like “The Chelsea Girls”, “The Nude Restaurant”, and “Blue Movie” may have been the best known, yet ‘smut’ or pornography often was the most accurate label for a Warhol film. Leamer makes this point without dwelling in the gutter.

Self-destruction is a recurring theme throughout Leamer’s recounting the tales of the muses, and he usually provides the evidence of Warhol being the reason, or at least a big part of it. Even with death/suicide occurring all-too-frequently, Warhol rarely showed outward emotion or grief. His peeps were not just replaceable, they were in fact, frequently replaced. Author Leamer goes on to detail Warhol’s connection to and management of The Velvet Underground, as well as his being shot at the Factory in 1968 by radical feminist writer Valerie Solanas (“SCUM Manifesto”). There is very little about this book or its stories that we find uplifting. Actually, the opposite is true. Despair was the emotion I most often felt while reading Leamer’s book, yet it’s also so well researched and insightful that we find ourselves appreciative of pulling back the curtain on a secretive icon of an era.

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Posted by David Ferguson

BILL CUNNINGHAM NEW YORK

April 12, 2011

 Greetings again from the darkness. Admittedly, my fashion sense is limited to jeans, a t-shirt and tennis shoes. I would not be one’s first choice to discuss the industry of fashion photography. However, that’s not what this documentary is really about. Instead of focusing on the photographs of Bill Cunningham, director Richard Press shoots the man at work and in life … the two being indistinguishable for Mr. Cunningham.

If you aren’t familiar with his name, you are not alone. Bill Cunningham has a long running NY TIMES page where his photographs are displayed. He also has a feature called “On The Street”, where he records commentary on his photographs – this can be heard on the website. Still, none of that tells you much about this man.

 The film opens abruptly with video of Cunningham at work. He is alternatingly riding his bicycle and sprint-walking as he weaves through the sea of taxis and humanity in downtown Manhattan. His trusty camera is always around his neck as he continues his quest for discovering fashion on the street … fashion sense in the working people of the city. His eye is sharp and quick. We never know what he will hone in on. Maybe a never-before-seen winter coat, a flamboyant hat, or even a pair of heels that a woman is sporting. The man is over 80 years old and his eye and mind still quickly process what he deems worthy of notice.

Once again, none of those words do justice to this man or his story. He lives, well did for 50 years, an incredibly humble life in a studio apartment within the confines of Carnegie Hall. Yes, as the film takes place, he is among the last of the remaining residents of the great hall. We learn management has determined that the few residents will be moved out of the building and relocated to other apartments nearby. Office space is needed.  History be damned!  We meet one of the other residents … the fascinating “Duchesss of Carnegie”, Editta Sherman. She has lived there for 60 years and it has been her home and photography studio. She made her living shooting celebrities and we catch a glimpse of her amazing work … including a short video of her dancing in the 60’s – filmed by Andy Warhol! Ms. Sherman’s space is palatial compared to Cunningham’s. His small studio apartment is crammed with metal file cabinets, each loaded with decades worth of photographs and negatives … a priceless history of New York fashion. His bed is a twin mattress held up by books and crates – no kitchen, and a community bathroom. “Humble existence” is an understatement.

 We learn from Mr. Cunningham that his work is divided into three parts: his street work, fashion shows, and charity events. He makes it clear that celebrities bore him and he is much more interested in how the everyday person uses fashion in their real life. Still, early on, we get comments from Vogue editor, Anna Wintour about how Cunningham’s eye impacts the fashion world. She gives him much credit. We also get quickies from Tom Wolfe, Annie Flanders and even Brooke Astor to see how easily Cunningham fits in with the upper crust, despite his connection to the street. There is even a segment in Paris where he is honored by the French Order of Art and Letters … and he “works” his own event!

 But it’s the street where he is most at home. He says he is on his 29th bicycle … the first 28 were stolen. He states this with the same enthusiasm that he shoots his subjects. The man is a constant smile and quick with banter, yet we learn just how alone he really is. When asked about his friends, family, lovers … he momentarily breaks down only to regroup and express his love for what he does – it’s not work, it’s pleasure.

By the end, it’s clear that while so many people respect the man and his work, no one really knows him. He lets his pictures stand as the testament to decades of documenting the colors and patterns and style of New Yorkers.

SEE THIS MOVIE IF: you want to see someone who loves their work and lives for the moment.

SKIP THIS MOVIE IF: you are looking for any real behind-the-scenes trade secrets in the fashion industry.  This is a story about a man and his work.

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Posted by David Ferguson